Contributing wine editor David Harker discovers la dolce vita exploring the neighbourhoods of Rome.
Rome has everything; history, culture, style and of course wine. So what have the Romans ever done for wine lovers? Well there’s Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, an extraordinary name for an often ordinary wine. Or there’s Frascati from the hills overlooking the city. And that’s about it for wines that you might find at home. But when in Rome…
Start with La Fiaschetta. A discreet doorway on the corner of the quiet Via dei Cappellari. A short walk from the hotspots of Plaza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori but a world away from the tourist traps. Small, simple, authentic and an enthusiastic owner touchingly proud of his regional wines. Be sure to book.
Behind Campo de’ Fiori is, L’Angolo Divino. This divine corner has been serving wine since 1946. And from the weary look of the patron he hasn’t missed a shift. Take a seat at the bar and work your way down the chalk board of wines by the glass. Nibble on cheese and charcuterie and chat until you get a smile.
Across the Ponte Sisto footbridge is Trastevere, literally across the Tiber. Stop at Trapizzino Trilussa for a wine list dedicated to regional wines and snack on suppli, the traditional Roman street food.
Then join the chatter of the evening passeggiata. Through winding, cobbled streets delivery trucks squeeze between pavement tables. This is the Rome of your imagination. Sunlit, bustling, beeping Rome. Around every corner the promise of Audrey Hepburn hugging Cary Grant on the back of a speeding Vespa.
The heart of this vibrant neighbourhood is the Basilica di Santa Maria, one of the oldest churches in the city. For those who follow a different religion pop into the club shop of Trastevere Calcio, Rome’s third football team with a history dating back to 1909.
A little further south is Testaccio. A traditional working-class area and the cradle of another football team, AS Roma. This recently gentrified neighbourhood of plane trees and pink pastel buildings makes for a pleasant Saturday morning stroll.
The indoor food market is worth a visit to mingle with gesticulating locals. Grab a slice of Pinsa Romana and try a glass of natural wine. From the market head to Piazza Testaccio, pause to watch the kids playing in one of Rome’s many fountains and then turn towards Via Marmorata for a real treat.
Volpetti Salumeria is an historic delicatessen with terracotta and white tiled floors, where rows of hams hang from the ceiling, artisan cheeses crowd under the glass counter and wines from the length of Italy line the wooden shelves. Sit at a marble topped table for a small bite, a glass of Franciacorta and people watch discerning Italians selecting their Saturday night treats.
For a casual supper step next door into Taverna Volpetti. Enjoy a short menu of seasonal dishes and my favourite wine list in Rome. The list is presented by self-confessed wine addict, Matteo Tomljanovich. Matteo turned his back on corporate life – including a spell at Proctor and Gamble, Newcastle – to devote himself to a love of wine. Let his passion guide you through a list that features cheerful Cesanese from Lazio and rare treasures from Piemonte.
Beyond the ancient Aurelian Walls is the student neighbourhood of Ostiense. De Gusto is a tiny, friendly Enoteca dedicated to wine, spirits and sake. Why sake? “Because I like it,” shrugs the owner. Close by is Trecca – Cucina di Mercato, simple ingredients cooked well.
On a Sunday morning – to escape the city heat, choked traffic and tides of tourists – depart teeming Termini on an early train to Frascati. The attractive hilltop town is a pleasant thirty minutes climb past ancient aqueducts, through vineyards and orchards. Ristorante ‘Na Fojetta is reassuringly traditional and a perfect place to enjoy a leisurely lunch of Porchetta; the classic Roman slice of slow roasted, boneless pork stuffed with herbs. Perfect with a bottle of Frascati.
Lazio is not the most lauded of Italian wine regions but it has a generous climate, volcanic soils, and passionate wine makers committed to sustainable viticulture. Their wines, made from Bellone, Grechetto and Cesanese, may never leave the region but when in Rome can be enjoyed by the curious wine lover who knows where to look. ENDS – 710 words
David’s Roman address book
La Fiaschetta – Via dei Cappellari, 64
L’Angolo Divino – Via dei Balestrari N.12/14
Trapizzino Trilussa – Piazza Trilussa 42
Volpetti Salumeria – Via Marmorata 47
Taverna Volpetti – Via Alessandro Volta 8
Enoteca De Gusto – Via Gabriello Chiabrera, 58A
Trecca – Cucina di Mercato – Via Alessandro Severo 222
Ristorante ‘Na Fojetta – Via del Risorgimento 4, Frascati
What’s in a name?
The Romans seem to have an awful lot of words for places to eat and drink, so what’s the difference?
Enoteca – A traditional enoteca is a wine shop where you can taste local wines before buying. The concept has evolved so that you may also be served a small selection of snacks alongside the wine.
Salumeria – A delicatessen. Some may have a few tables where you can enjoy cured meats and cheese with a glass of wine.
Osteria – Originally a place serving only wine. Today the emphasis is more likely to be on a simple menu of traditional, local dishes.
Taverna – An inn or tavern serving drinks with food available.
Trattoria – A sort of Italian bistro. Traditionally a casual dining place, often family owned, serving rustic local food.
Ristorante – A more formal, full service restaurant.
