Ever wondered where wine educators go to get educated? Portfolio Wine Editor, David Harker, spends three days in Bordeaux learning about the region and sitting an exam.
“Quiet please.” The class falls silent. Twitchy students hunch forward, pens poised over papers. I am squeezed into a too small chair, in a children’s classroom, scratching my head. Desperate to recall my limited knowledge of Bordeaux root stocks.
“Any questions? No. Then you may begin…” And with a nod from Sabine we start writing.
The examination marks the end of a three day programme of lectures and vineyard visits accredited by L’École du Vin de Bordeaux. A school that supports a network of 250 wine educators across 21 countries promoting Bordeaux wines.
My class of 11 includes; Wei Xu, who modestly acknowledges that his wine business in Shanghai turns over £3 million. Cheryl, who teaches a class of 700 students at Cornell University. And Belgian geologist turned sommelier, Catherine – AKA “La Fée Pompette” or “The Tipsy Fairy”. All back to wine school in Bordeaux.
The L’École du Vin resides in the upper floors of La Maison du Vin. An elegant 18th century town house shaped like a ship’s prow. The ground floor is home to Le Bar à Vin, decorated with bottles, stained glass and wine themed tapestries. The bar offers Bordeaux wines by the glass at a fair price. A destination for thirsty wine scholars, curious tourists and office workers. The pavement terrace is popular, there’s no advance booking but there is a protocol; wait to be seated, do not share a table uninvited and never rearrange the chairs. I speak from experience.
Ten minutes stroll along Quai des Chartrons is my new favourite wine bar, Le Sobre Chartrons. The vibe here is relaxed and engaging. Owner Pierre busily pours wine, takes orders, and offers advice with a smile.
I’m tempted to stay but tomorrow is an early start. Ahead are three days of vineyard visits to meet the winemakers and discover the challenges that they face.
How best to respond to global warming and build a sustainable future is the pressing issue for Guilain Latournerie. One of a new generation of environmentally conscious winemakers. He brings sheep down from the Pyrenees to roam between his Château Caillivet vines and is contemplating a return to horse drawn ploughing.
The brave new owners of Château La Peyruche turned their backs on Paris in search of the good life. For them biodiversity means building bat boxes and hives amongst the vines. An opportunity, “Air Bat and Bee”?
If you fancy an Air B&B in a vineyard, Bruno de la Rivière will let you a room in his 16th century Château du Petit-Puch.
Rising costs are another cause for concern. Aymar du Vivier, the aristocratic owner of Château de Malleret, likes to reminisce about the good old days selling wine in New York. Forty years later he finds the market much more difficult. Even though his wines carry the endorsement of Air France. With a Gallic shrug, he exclaims, “the cost!” From €900 oak barrels to losing 20 hectares of crops to marauding wild boar.
I suspect that cost is less of an issue at ultra-smart Château Pédesclaux. Here the search for perfection is such that the winemaking team devote an entire Sunday to a blind tasting of grapes. Why? To determine which vineyard plots make the Grand Vin and which will be relegated to the second label.
The vineyards and their stories surround Bordeaux. Graves, is just a couple of tram stops from the chic city centre. The pretty hilltop village of Saint-Émilion a thirty minute train ride away. A favourite trip of mine was to once take the early morning train and have breakfast on the terrace of Hôtel de Pavie, where James Martin once worked.
If you ever do the same then, over your cannelé and coffee, look out at the vineyards and reflect that for every Château Pédesclaux there are twenty Châteaux Caillivets striving to sustain a living.
Oh, and if you to fall into conversation with a wine maker ask him what root stock he prefers and let me know would you?
