We dined at two of the coolest eateries in Gateshead recently and they did not disappoint. Located under the Tyne Bridge, and nestled among the Quayside’s instantly recognisable landmarks sits By The River Brew Co. For anyone who hasn’t ventured over to the southern side of the riverbank, By the River Brew Co. offers a collection of industrial-chic establishments within converted shipping containers, including a brewery, bar, restaurant, cafe, cocktail bar and street food market. We made recent visits to the Michelin recognised restaurant and cosy café.
Whilst we have been many times before, it was a while since we had been to Träkol, the applauded restaurant at By The River Co. and we wished we had been back sooner. Träkol offers seasonal small, large and sharing plates prepared with a special emphasis on preservation and cooking over fire. The latter has inspired the restaurant’s set-up, with a prominent and visible kitchen showcasing skilled chefs as they manage fire to prepare their dishes, and it lends itself to the restaurant’s name too which translates to ‘Charcoal’ from Swedish.
With a plan to while away the evening and take our time, we ordered in small rounds from across the menu including snacks, small plates and large plates. We chose bread, of course, which was served with a strong yeasty butter, and we ordered a set of Oysters to get things going. The Oysters were served raw (our preference) with dill and gooseberries. They were salty, fresh and aromatic and a great choice to cleanse the pallet before tucking into some of the heartier dishes.
Between courses, we watched the kitchen as they moved effortlessly between fire and ice. It makes for great culinary entertainment and a real insight into the work that goes into preparing such wide ranging dishes with meticulous care and attention. The garden kitchen which can be seen on the way into the site further allows for a somewhat immersive experience.
Our choice of dishes was a little eclectic and included a beautifully sweet and charred patty pan squash with ricotta, and truly delicious squid with brassicas, green peppercorns and brown butter. Squid can be hard to get right but this was among the best we’ve tried. For a shared main, we chose the asado lamb served with cauliflower, pearl barley and imperial stout. It was rich and smoky but had a lightness from the cauliflower and pearl barley which took away from the mouth coating fatty-ness that can often be found with lamb dishes.
It was a generous, beautifully prepared and sophisticated meal in cosy yet architectural surroundings with an achingly good view of the Quayside. There really aren’t many better places to look over whilst dining. Träkol always feels busy and bouncy, helped by the atmospheric lighting, flickering fire in the centre and adjoined bar. It feels like a secret and a little hidden away, despite its prominent location, and has a definite ‘New York Cool’ kind of vibe, paired with Scandinavian homeliness.
Next door, you will find Knead and Favør in the ‘Backyard Bike Shop’ building, and it’s a must for sandwich aficionados.
Again, with a fire in the middle of the room, Knead and Favør continues the unique industrial-cool-cosy-homely feel. There are sofas, tall tables for gathering and short tables for dining all of which come with a view of our region’s award-winning and high-end custom bike retailer. It may read like a strange mix, but the combination works and fits the site.
Knead and Favør offers a deli sandwich menu with really well thought through fillings. The ‘Wakey Wakey Smell the Jackey’ collaboration sandwich with Wylam Brewery came with Jakehead glazed pork BBQ sauce and vinegar slaw and pickles – It was astoundingly good. The ‘Los Pollos Hermanos’ also exceeded expectations, stuffed with fried chicken, hash brown, pickles, lettuce and chilli honey mayo.
Upstairs, you will find Fixie’s Winter Garden on the roof terrace. We haven’t had a chance to visit yet but its definitely next on our list for a night out. From the team behind the wonderful ‘Mother Mercy’, hidden deep below The Old George Yard off High Bridge Street, Fixie’s Winter Garden is currently offering a range of seasonal cocktails with one of the best views in Newcastle.
Those who prefer a more casual dining experience can try the HWKR street food market which opens at weekends and hosts resident street food vendors including Acropolis, Dabbawal, Meat Stack and Veganatomy, among others.
By The River Brew Co. really has it all. It’s as fitting a place for a romantic meal as it is for a group night out or to host guests. Anyone from out of town will be blown away by the location and won’t be disappointed by the experience.
