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As the biggest independent stockist of Patek Phillipe outside London, Berry's Jewellers delves into some of the most complicated models in the great brand's recent history.

As the biggest independent stockist of Patek Phillipe outside London, Berry’s Jewellers delves into some of the most complicated models in the great brand’s recent history.


As Geneva’s last independent family owned watch manufacturer, Patek Philippe remains committed to the ambitions of Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe, who vowed to develop and craft the world’s finest watches when the company was established in 1839.

Patek Philippe is a full-fledged ‘manufacture’, meaning it develops and produces its movements and
components using its own resources from start to finish. A benchmark in the world of watchmaking, Patek Philippe has also defined its own criteria, regarded as the strictest in the industry.

The Patek Philippe Seal exceeds all other watch industry quality standards and applies to the finished watch as a whole, including the smooth operation of all features, the accuracy of the movements, as well as impeccable service provided throughout the entire lifespan of its products.


Keenly attentive to aesthetics, Patek Philippe has always regarded its timekeeping instruments as works
of art, exuding a refinement that reflects the perfection of the exquisite mechanical calibers beating inside. These are creations that find their way untouched through changing fashion trends while losing nothing of their quality, beauty and timeless appeal. Patek Philippe currently offers a collection of over 150 different models that are crafted in small series — ranging from a dozen to several hundred units — and equipped with an extensive range of entirely in-house movements.

From the mechanisms to the designs, watch enthusiasts the world over agree, the stringent requirements
imposed throughout all phases of production, as well as the months of work invested in manufacturing and completion, are what makes every Patek Phillipe timepiece a rare and precious creation — a treasure greatly valued by connoisseurs.

In the domain of casual elegance, Patek Philippe established a strong position with a watch that has since gained cult status, the Nautilus. Launched in 1976 and sporting a unique style, the Nautilus has an
octagonal bezel and a porthole inspired design which gave this model its name. The first grand complication in the Nautilus collection was the 5740/1G-001 which showcases an analogue perpetual calendar, one of the manufacture’s most coveted classics since 1985. The calendar automatically recognises the number of days in each month, including the periodically recurring 29th of February.
In 2021, Patek Philippe introduced a totally new perpetual calendar with an innovative patented one-line display.


The 5236P-001 displays the day, the date, and the month on a single line in an elongated aperture beneath 12 o’clock. To combine this unique feature with crisp legibility and high reliability, the designers developed a new selfwinding movement for which three patent applications were filed.

A panoramic aperture of this kind is not totally unprecedented in the manufacture’s collections, having
already crafted pocket watches with an in-line calendar display for the American market, one example of
such is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum — a pocket watch from 1972 (No. P-1450) that features a calendar format ‘à l’américaine’ (month, date, day). Never before though has the manufacture introduced a wristwatch with a full calendar on a single line as exemplified by the 5236P-001.

To implement this masterpiece of miniaturisation, Patek Philippe had to overcome totally new technical
challenges. To assure the largest possible calendar display on a single line with optimised legibility, the
developers were asked to design a system with two date discs, one for the tens and one for the units, so the calendar display consists of four discs, one for the day, two for the date and one for the month, all four perfectly embedded in the same plane. A single date disc with 31 numerals would have been too small and less easily legible.


The chronograph has always played a leading role amid the vast repertoire of Patek Philippe complicated watches. Since 2005, the manufacture has confirmed this mastery by developing a complete range of chronograph movements, with or without additional functions, entirely designed and crafted in its workshops.

In October last year, Patek Philippe expanded its vast selection of chronographs by unveiling three
variations of the 5204, 5905 and 5930 models that illustrate its expertise in the field of complications, particularly in the measurement of short times.

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind model from 1940, the self-winding World-Time Chronograph Reference 5930P-001, combines two functions: a self-winding flyback chronograph and World-Time, an iconic complication in the history of the Manufacture. The World-Time function simultaneously displays the
time in 24 time zones.


When changing time zones, an exclusive patented mechanism enables correction of all displays
by pressing the 10 o’clock pusher, without affecting the accuracy of the movement. Launched in 2016 in a
white gold version with a blue dial and matching strap, this new version has reinterpreted the 5930 in the brilliance of platinum with a green dial and strap.

The names of the cities are printed in green on the corresponding disc, the green dial centre illustrates the mastery of fine craftsmanship skills with a circular hand-guilloched circular pattern. The applied hour-markers and the faceted Dauphine-type hands in white gold are highlighted by a luminescent coating ensuring good legibility in all circumstances. The entirely hand-polished platinum case is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock and features the ‘wing-type’ lugs typical of 1940s and 1950s World-Time watches.

Patek Philippe’s manifestation of ancestral artisanship is not reserved exclusively for one-of-a kind pieces and limited editions. The Manufacture also perpetuates these skills in its everyday work, and with them decorates watch models from its current collection, like the manual engraving that enlivens the cases and dials of watches such as the 5160/500G perpetual calendar. This self-winding perpetual calendar with
a retrograde date hand in an officer’s style case is a Patek Philippe tribute to artisans who master rare handcrafts. The centre of the dial, the white-gold case, the hinged cover and the clasp are lavishly decorated with manually executed engravings inspired by a pocket watch that belongs to the Patek
Philippe Museum’s collection.


Looking to invest in a new watch? Berry’s Jewellers advocate brands on their reputation, heritage and beliefs, and Patek Philippe mirrors that ethos perfectly. Because of this, their relationship with Patek Philippe has grown stronger and stronger since they first connected over 30 years ago, and Berry’s are now the biggest independent stockist of Patek Phillipe outside London.

With dedicated Patek Philippe areas within several of their stores, Berry’s offers an enhanced experience
when looking for the perfect timepiece, and their watch experts can advise you on how to commence your Patek Phillipe journey or add to your collection.


Contact Michael White at Berry’s York on [email protected]


Posted 21st July 2022

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